Road Trips 2011 - 2012

Inked Documentary : Out and about Mexico city

“No way I'm returning to Mexico. I can't stand being in a place more surreal than my paintings” - Salvador Dali, referring to Mexico's cultural richness and contrast.

Indeed, Mexico's roots span millennia of such dramatic transformations, that dimensions of its cultural heritage and diversity are almost boundless! Few countries in the world can boast of having such an enriched past.

And yet, the world knows Mexico for other reasons (“penumbral knowledge” if I may add!). Its distinctive cuisine is certainly, the most popular. Think of Mexican food and the images that readily conjure up are tacos, enchiladas and burritos. (Ironic as it may seem, these stereotypic versions are more widely available in the US, than across the border). Add a tequila, and he aquí (lo behold!), you have visually constructed an epicurean delight! But, as you may have guessed already, there is a lot more to Mexican gastronomy.
 

Apart from its delectable food, Mexico also enjoys international acclaim for its authentic Mariachi music, movie stars (remember Bárbara Mori who acted in Kites opposite Bollywood actor Hrithik Roshan?), and of course, the world's richest man, Carlos Slim. Unfortunately, much ink and media attention has also been expended in discussing Mexico's infamous association with illegal drug trade.

But, beyond all these general facts is a nation brewing with such incredible history, that a visit to the country changes one – literally. Furnished below are seven “geotourism” centered, low octane destinations in and around Mexico city. Each place has been categorically reviewed, based on :(1) Traveler rating ('worth a visit', or 'must see'); (2) Porquoi? (Spanish for “why”, and in this context, 'why visit?' ); (3) Factual stories – which briefly describe events that shaped the history and culture of a place ; (4) Fun factor - the level of active involvement in the general and prevailing ethos of the people; and (5) Awareness quotient (low/medium/high) -an estimate of what this experience, including its historical significance, can teach us on a personal and global level.

I am sure you will enjoy the vicarious ride through the several time-lines of Mexican history – buckle up, and let's vamoose to Mexico!

1. Teotihuacán: Pyramids (time period: Classical Era)

Traveler rating: Must -see

Porquoi? Perhaps in all of Latin America, nothing can match the majesty of the three stunning temples built in this city (the monumental pyramids of the Sun God, the Moon God, and Quetzalcóatl, or the pyramid of the Feathered Serpent). The 'sangre azul' (members of the royal blood) lived within this splendid establishment.

The Temple of the Sun God



The Temple of the Moon God



The Temple of the Feathered Serpent,  Quetzalcóatl

        Factual stories:

• The highest towering pyramid is that of the Sun God, who was considered most important by the Teotihuacáns. The discovery of caves underneath, suggests that these caverns were used as places to communicate with Gods. Children's skeletons have also been found on all four sides of the pyramid, pointing to the possibility of a complex ritual of human sacrifice.
  
  
• City planning:

- The city was fully urbanized, with up to 200,000 citizens, who lived in walled residences outside of the royal complex. It is said that there was nothing like it, anywhere else in the world at that time.

-A central axis, now called the Avenue of the Dead ran across the Pyramid of the Sun on one end, and the Pyramid of the Moon at the other. History tells the story of a period of continued drought which caused the citizens to rebel against the chief priest. In what might be called a precipitate action, they marched across the Avenue of the Dead, desecrating the temple and burning down the palaces. A Cadmean victory, because Teotihuacán would never rise again (Fall of Teotihuacán, 600 AD). 
 

Fun factor:

It is believed even today, that at the central point of the Sun pyramid, energy from the Sun God can still be obtained. Several thousand visitors climb the never-ending steps to the top, look up at the sun, raise one hand towards it, and touch the 'central point' with the other – all in the hope of drawing some rejuvenating energy!

Give me the power Sun! Atop the 215 feet tall Sun pyramid
 

    2. Teotihuacán: The dance of the Voladores (or flyers)         

Traveler rating: Must -see
  

Porquoi?: It is a ceremony kept alive from pre-Hispanic times. In fact, it has been named an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. The traditional act involves the voladores climbing to the top of a tall pole, winding ropes around themselves, and then leaping off into the air. Traditionally, only four participants swirl down to the ground playing a flute or drum. A fifth voladore, remains on top. There is a lot of science behind this custom, as also a lot of symbolic religious belief. For example, each of the four voladores spins exactly 13 times before hitting the ground. That comes to a total of 52 spins, the number associated with the starting point for a new Sheaf*.

The symbolic religious belief associated with this ritual can be understood by examining the position of the four fliers, which tallies with the four cardinal points. The fifth person is considered to be at the center of the universe. The ritual was initially created as a means of asking the gods to end a severe drought. 

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*The Sheaf as a time interval was used by the Indians of Central America, much before the Mayans and Aztecs came up with the Earth-Venus Synodic interval (the time required by Venus to return to same position relative to the Sun by an observer on Earth - approx. 584 days) as a way of tracking time cycles. The early Indians described one sheaf as the time taken by both planets to re-synchronise (365 days for earth/260 days for Venus accounting forward advance = 73/52). After every 52 calendar years then, a new Sheaf would begin.

The voladores in flight

Factual stories:

More myth than factual this one! Legend has it, that at a time when there was great drought, five men decided that they must make the God of rain (Xipe Totec) hear the village plea. So they came to the forest, and when they chanced upon the tallest tree, they prayed for the tree's spirit to help them in their mission. Then they felled it, removed its leaves, and erected the trunk in the village, with much ceremony. With vines strapped around their waists and bodies adorned with feathers, the men climbed the pole, but only four of them launched themselves into the air. Through their downward flight, the fifth voladore played the flute and drum - all this, in the hope of attracting God's attention. The story ends with the rain God pleased, and so the rains poured again in this part of the country. 

 

Fun factor:

Imagine watching this splendid ritual in close range, and all for free – or nearly so, unless one of them pesters you for some pesos!

Free or not, this ancient tradition is well worth watching, since only few such customs have survived in the modern world. The dance of the Voladores is most popular in Veracruz, but can also be seen in other parts of the country.

Awareness rating: Medium

3.       Guanajuato: Museo de las Momias (Museum of the Mummies)

Traveler rating: Must -see (Advise: Not for the faint-hearted!)

Porquoi? Only one other of its kind exists in the world (Palermo, Italy). The museum contains a human library of exhumed, “naturally mummified” bodies – i.e. bodies which have dried out naturally, before they could decompose. (This happens when there is a suitable combination of soil conditions and dry/cold climate). Natural immortality in death, so to speak. It is, but because of this, that they stand out in several respects. For one, they are more “spine-chilling/nauseating” to look at than the well-known Egyptian mummy. In this context, perhaps the most nausea-inducing exhibit is the "La momia más pequeño del mundo" – or the smallest mummy in the world. The baby, a 6 month old fetus, is shown along with its mother. A close second would be the exhibit belonging to a woman buried alive (the woman's arms can be seen raised over her face, confirming this fact).

Supplementary features unique to such bodies, are their external 

attributes. For example, one can still see the ragged clothes that the   

bodies were once covered in, along with their eyebrows, and hair, and their last facial expressions just as it were, when they died.  

What's even more intriguing than all this? The fact that even today, scientists are not exactly sure of what specific conditions explain the phenomenon of natural mummification. The enigma surrounding it has only given way to eccentric thinking. Some people believe that it is divine punishment for crimes committed when alive. On a personal level, it forces one to reflect on life, death and beyond.

Factual stories: 

A law passed in this part of the country required that graves in the local    cemetery had to either be bought for an exorbitant amount, or rented every five years. If the deceased's family was unable to pay the rent, the body was exhumed and disposed of, to make way for new arrivals (between the years 1865 and 1958). 

Awareness quotient: High

The city of Guanajuato: On way to the Mummies Museum

     4. Guanajuato : El Pípila : Juan José Monument

    Traveler rating: Worth a visit

Porquoi?: A landmark and starting point to explain the beginning of Mexico's War of Independence against the conquistadors. At the top of the monument dedicated to Juan José is a statue of him, holding aloft a flaming torch.

 
The Juan José Monument 

        History: Factual stories:

• Pípila's (or Juan José's) tale of heroism is set in the year 1810. He is described as a mentally and physically challenged young man who worked in the city of Guanajuato as a miner (Guanajuato was the richest in the world in silver reserves then). Around the time that this story takes a turn, the evangelistic fervor in Mexico had only just started to build up – after three centuries, the Mexicans had finally declared their war for independence against the Spanish colonial authorities. But they had also come to realize an urgent need for money, required to buy the necessary arms and ammunitions. The people of Guanajuato knew that a Spanish treasury was stored in a warehouse at the top of the city hill. This warehouse was strongly protected with high stone walls. At various points soldiers had been positioned, so that if one tried to climb up the hill, it was certain that he would not return! 
  
  
  Juan José took it upon himself – with a block of flat stone tied to his back, he crawled up to the fortress. This way, he was able to shield himself from any gun shots. He carried explosives in one hand, and a torch in the other. When he reached the entrance, he set the explosives on fire, thus opening up the warehouse, as well as scaring away the troops. Some accounts suggest that the locals then followed him up the hill, looted the warehouse, and killed the Spanish soldiers. 
    
  Fun factor: 
  Climb up the (really) narrow stairs for a visual treat – a fantastic view of the whole city of Guanajuato. At the base of the monument are numerous plazas bustling with activity (rather impossible to overlook the numerous forms of street entertainment – from Organilleros, to local shop vendors advertising their products, to persons dancing to Mariachi music). The view of the city is also impressive from here, and a good photo-shoot location!
  
  
  Downtown Guanajuato is just a hair away, and street entertainment doubles up, giving an almost festive feel to the city. It is nothing like the “downtowns of the US”. Much more rustic, with cobbled, narrow  streets,    music, and pockets of crowds leading the way. A popular local drama played out here (in a 'you-might-miss-it-now' alley) is the Spanish version of the Romeo/Juliet story (Cayacon del Beso) – although greatly altered. It is fun to watch, especially with the crowds cheering on!

                        A view from the top of the Juan José Monument

Way to Downtown

Cayacon del Beso

           Awareness quotient: Medium

    5.  San Miguel de Allende: Mask museum

         Traveler rating: Worth a visit. Possibly even a must-see!

Porquoi?: Here's the place to be, if you're interested in Mexican folk art. A private collection owned by two Americans now settled in Mexico, it features a wide variety of masks (human and animal), arts and crafts, unique to different ethnic groups and tribes spread across the country. These pieces provide an interesting means to understanding the artistry, culture, and traditions that continue to perpetuate among these groups. One would do well to note the dynamic role that masks have played in the context of Mexican history, particularly as a product of numerous mixed traditions. A series of video presentations (exclusive!) provide an understanding of how they are used in practice. 

To say the least, these specimens (in particular, the vibrant and vivid masks) are so intriguing - they seem to take a life of their own! Make it a “must-see”.

Masks  

Hello there!

Reading some of the fascinating stories

Factual stories:

Listed below are a sample of stories associated with different masks:

The “Pharisee mask”: The dramatic portrayals associated with this mask can be attributed to the period after the Spanish conquest of Mexico. They are used to describe the events leading up to the handing over of Jesus by conservative Jews, and possibly, also his resurrection. Initially, they were used to generate awareness amongst recent converts to Christianity. (Ethnic group: Mayo)

The “Pascola mask”: As an expression of religious belief, these masks

were used to form a “pact with the devil”. Perhaps the idea was that “diabolic” power must not be overcome, but harnessed. Another, possibly more potent theory suggests the role of the mask in identifying supernatural power. The story goes that to become a Pascola performer (wearing the mask), one had to prove that he was a 'cut above the rest'. One way of doing this, was to make a pact with the devil (usually in a cave). If successful, this person became the channel of communication between man and God. (Ethnic group – Yaqui, Mayo(?))

The “Gardener's Dance”: Clearly, a dance form that came into being after Spanish colonization. These masks are used to present a dramatized (even unusual!) interpretation of the Battle of the Moors and Christians. The dance shows how the locals got bored of the Muslim Doctrine, and hence adopted Christianity. (Ethnic group – Zapotec)

The “dance of Manuel”: A parody of sorts, this dance provides a hilarious account of a couple. The wife is depicted as mean and arrogant, with the husband also projected in negative shades (and a tall hat to beat!). A dance troupe goes around the city and although the husband sees them, he fails to notice the mockery underlying their costumes and actions! This appears to be one of the few masks which was/is solely used for entertainment purposes. (Ethnic group - Nahua)

      Arts and Crafts of notable interest:

• The Zapotecs, who infused religious beliefs into crocheting. The 'dual personality' model (which describes a person's personality as coming from the mother's and father's roots) is seen in several of their works. The Zapotecs also modeled masks, in the belief that one’s personality could be changed by wearing them.
  
  
• The Mayans, who used stitching to convey customs, and beliefs, and also as a way of preserving their history from the Spaniards. 
   
• The Ottomi, who are recognized most, for their paper art. The processing of making paper (and therefrom, art) is unique to them. Typically wood from a tree bark is soaked in ash and lime, and then pressed/beaten with stone. Their art is symbolic, much like other ethnic groups, and like the Mayans, a hatred for the Spaniards (“a man with shoes”) is also reflected in their work.
  
  
• Central Mexico – Posada - whose La Calavera Catrina (the elegant skull -etched in 1913) is now an iconic figure of Mexico. The image is one of a 'high class' female skeleton, usually dressed in a large gown and feathered hat. It is more prominently displayed during the “Day of the Dead” celebrations (Nov 1 and 2). It has also been popularized by Diego Rivera,  recognized the world over as a distinguished mural painter.

Fun factor:
One can buy replicas of the masks displayed in the museum. Visitors are     also allowed to take photo-shoots holding or wearing masks.
Also drive your way through to downtown for the local, tropical gaiety! There is a popular church here, built when the Spaniards first came.


 Awareness quotient: High

        6. Mexico city: The Anthropology Museum

        
         Traveler rating: Must-see

Porquoi?: The largest museum in Latin America, it has also won awards for its architectural design. The museum does a splendid job of chronologically tracing different civilizations that burgeoned in Mexico, including the Olmecs, Teotihuacáns, Mayans, Totlecs, and Aztecs. It is almost impossible to find such pieces of Mesoamerican art anywhere else in the world. Several rooms have recreated scenes - be it the Serpent temple of the Teotihuacáns, or Pakal's tomb in the Mayan exhibit room. Of course, there are also a number of original stone structures – with the “star” attraction being the Sun Stone or Aztec calendar. Without a doubt, this is Mexican history just as it were, right in front of you. Do not miss this!

The original Aztec stone calendar
         

       Factual stories:

Much of civilization history can be found in texts, and in that sense this section is quite redundant. This museum is meant more to “see” what one has already read or knows about. However a brief overview of the more prominent civilizations has been given below:

• The Olmecs – All civilizations in Mesoamerica originate from the Olmecs. The discovery of hieroglyphic writing is attributed to them.

• The Teotihuacáns – a lot has been said about them in a preceding section.

• The Mayans – The Mayans became powerful after the fall of the Teotihuacáns in 600 A.D. They were well advanced in their knowledge of science and astronomy. (On a side note: Is the world really going to end in 2012? Well, the Mayans had devised a base long-count calendar of 360 days, called the tun. Since their counting system was based on 20s, they classified 20 tuns as a Katun, and 20 Katuns as a baktun. The cataclysm predicted on December 21, 2012, is simply the day that one baktun ends, and the next begins). In the field of Math, the Mayans excellence is obvious from their knowledge of the zero – known much before the Europeans had learned it from the Arabs. They are also recognized as the only pre-Columbian civilization who had a fully-developed written language (the Maya hieroglyphs). 
  
  In their Spiritual beliefs, the Mayans had an abstract God, and a concept of heaven (13 levels above “human life”) and the underworld (9 levels below “human life”). Like several other Mesoamerican civilizations before and during their time, they also believed in animal and human sacrifice.
  
  In sports, the Mayans popularized the ouch-my-hip-hurts ball game (or Pitz). In the most popular version of this game, the players struck a ball (weighing up to 4 kg and made of rubber) with their hips, the final objective being to pass the ball through one of the vertical stone rings placed on each side of the court. Some games had religious significance, with the losing team being sacrificed.
  
  Of archaeological interest is the full-scale replica of the tomb of Pakal the Great, originally discovered deep within the Temple of Inscriptions at Palenque. The Mayan king Pakal ruled Palenque for most of his 80 years. The magnificent, carved sarcophagus lid shows Pakal as a young(?) adult falling into the jaws of a white-bone serpent. Given the weight of the tomb, it is quite plausible that the pyramid temple was constructed later, and around it. The mortuary mask (replica shown) which adorned Pakal is shown “incrusted with more than 200 tiny carved, polished and perfectly assembled bits of jade mosaic” – a masterpiece in itself!
  
  There is much that can be spoken about the Mayan legacy. But for the purpose of an overview, this must suffice! What may be noted though is that the Mayans never fully disappeared, but gradually diminished in power.

Replica of the jade mortuary mask of Pakal the Great

• The Toltecs – The vacuum left by the Mayans was filled by the Toltec civilization. This was also the period when the Zapotecs rose to power. Many of the archaeological exhibits suggest that the Toltecs were obsidian lovers.
  

• The Aztecs – Perhaps the two civilizations that left the deepest impressions on Mexico's cultural history are those of the Mayans and the Aztecs. Yet, their empires were in many ways, remarkably different from each other.
  An Aztec legend relates how they established themselves in central Mexico (modern Mexico City). It is believed that their chief priest Tenoch prophesized that their new capital (or chief place of settlement) would be founded in the place where an eagle was seen perched on a cactus, devouring a snake. Thus they crossed the valley of Mexico, into the lake- island that we now call Mexico City. This legend has such strong religious significance, that it is depicted in the current coat of arms of the Mexican flag. In the Aztec times, this place came to be known as Tenochtitlan (AD 1344 - 45). To the immediate north of this location, a twin city called Tlatelolco was established.
  
  The Aztecs achieved numerous feats - an explanation for their long, majestic reign. Some of these include their superior military prowess, which allowed them to impose their hegemony over numerous other tribes. Their hydraulic technology was also unmatched – the construction of a network of canals, canoes and embankments to prevent flooding, only affirm this. In their religious beliefs and customs, they were complex, but it is worth spending some time discussing these. 
  
  It is an absolute must for one to visit the ruins of the Aztec temple at Zocalo, Mexico city for this purpose. Not only does it “shock and awe”, but
  it is here that one can get a good grasp of Aztec religion, and the symbolism that is replete, in their construction of the temple.
  
  Like other pre-Columbian cultures, the Aztecs constructed their temples in successive phases, building over an earlier phase, which was expanded, raised, and improved. The raising of the temple served to prevent flooding, which the city was constantly subjected to.
  
  Among the pantheon of Gods worshipped by the Aztecs, the Teotihuacáns' Serpent God remained a prominent figure (the first level of the pyramid is shown decorated with four projecting serpent figures). A frog altar (symbolic of the rain God) was constructed in close proximity to this base. Several stages of expansion (6?) followed, most of them, under Moctezuma I (Aztec chief between 1440 and 1469 AD). At the very top of the pyramid were the temple shrines, where a gruesome ritual was carried out–namely, the offering of a freshly sacrificed human heart, as divine food to the Sun. To the south was another shrine dedicated to the war God Huitzatapoli. A stone figure of the rain God Tlatoc is also visible at this location. Walk a little further, and you will be led to The 'House of Eagles' .This is the place where the Aztec elite performed ceremonies including meditations, prayers, offerings and perhaps, even human sacrifice.
  
  The Aztec legacy has managed to live on, although as a civilization, it eventually diminished in power. Historical accounts suggest it was due to a combination of factors, particularly, Spain’s invasion and victory by way of superior weaponry, coupled with the fact that they had little prophylactic measures.

The Aztec main shrine atop the pyramid temple, where human hearts were sacrificed and offered as food to the sun

The Aztec storm(?) God also found at the main shrine

Sculptures found at Aztec temple : A total of 9(?) such sculptures have been found   

The Aztec ruins at Zocalo, Mexico city

  Fun factor: 

  Consider this: it may take up to three days to even casually cover the

   museum. Three days steeped in the aura and mystery of Mexico's past.

   A bonanza package? Visit the Aztec ruins at Zocalo. You will not be

   disappointed!

   Awareness quotient: Very high

  7.  Mexico city: Basílica de Guadalope

Traveler rating: Must-see 

Porquoi?: The most important religious site in all of Latin America, and no.2 for Catholics, after Rome. The religious implications of the legend of Guadalope are so strong, that it seems appropriate to violate the norm of telling the story in the next section!

San Juan Diego, an Aztec peasant, was walking over the Tepeyac hill (Cerro del Tepeyac), on his way to the monastery at Tlatelolco. On December 9^th of 1931, he heard a voice calling out to him. Telling himself that it was just his mind playing tricks, he continued on his journey. On the following day however, he received the brilliant vision of an olive skinned Virgin. Santa Maria (as she revealed herself) then sent Diego to tell the bishop Juan de Zumárraga, that she wanted a shrine built in her honor. The incredulous bishop sent him back – he needed a sign of God’s will! In the third apparition that followed, she instructed him to gather the roses that began blooming in the rocky soil near his feet. This was incredible. For one, roses of this kind were not indigenous to Mexico. For another, it was the cold month of December – forget the fact that these roses were blooming on a hill! Bundling the flowers in his ayate (cloak), he returned to the bishop on December 12th. When he unfurled his cloak, the Bishop fell to his knees. Such beautiful roses were a sight to behold, but what gripped the prelate was the swarthy image of Guadalope that had miraculously been emblazoned on the poor peasant’s cape. Every person who was in that church that day was awestruck by this phenomenal revelation.

December 12^th is thus considered most important to the Mexicans, and even Catholics the world over. It is the day that all of Mexico virtually comes to a standstill. While this religious site is packed with several thousand pilgrims and sightseers every day, on the 12^th of December, as many as 5 million people visit this holy place. A large number of them cover the last few kilometers on their knees, in an act of pure devotion.

There are several important religious landmarks in this location:

1. The Nueva Basílica (or “New Basílica): This modern sanctuary was built as a replacement for the Antigua Basílica (or “Old Basílica”, built in 1536, and located to the right of this new one). It now accommodates up to 10,000 visitors at a time. It also holds Juan Diego’s original cape, featuring the image of Guadalope just as it had appeared (in a blue mantle, trimmed with gold). The cloak hangs from high above, in a tightly secure case that pilgrims can view from a moving walkway behind the altar.
2. Climb up the rocky hillock and you will be greeted by a chapel (Capilla del Cerrito) built in the exact location where Diego had his visions. Notice the rose gardens planted along the way. Descend along a different flight of steps and you will bear witness to the place where the Lady of Guadalope made her fourth apparition.
3. The carrillόn or Atrium cross – The huge stone cross has four ways of telling time. There is a sun dial, an astronomical clock, a modern clock, and the Aztec calendar. The face of the cross has images representing the four apparitions of Guadalope.
4. Pope John Paul II visited this holy shrine to canonize Juan Diego in 2002. A statue of the Pope made entirely out of metal from donated keys, can also be seen here.

The new Basílica; Juan Diego's cloak can be seen behind the main altar (not shown in this photograph)   

The chapel at the top of the hill

Fun factor: There are several religious dances and fiestas that take place here to honor the country’s patron saint. From traditional Aztec, to the more popular dance forms with dancers twirling in flamboyant costumes – watching them is a good way to experience the Mexican spirit!

A Spanish dance, in honor of Our Lady of Guadalope. Notice the Atrium Cross in the background


             Awareness quotient: Depends on perspective

A short note about the Castillo de Chapultepec (Mexico city):

I had initially decided to remove this from my list of places visited, not because it is uninteresting, but for some reason, appeared not to flow with the current of the essay. Then of course I realized that I have shed little light on the political history post Spanish colonization of this nation. What better place to discuss this than the Castillo de Chapultepec?

Spanish entry in Mexican territory as briefly mentioned before, came soon after the defeat of the Aztec’s mighty empire. There is a lot of drama that surrounds this hegemonic war. Anyway, once Spain had established its domination, it forced those who remained to convert to Christianity. This was done in tandem with the widespread demolition of almost “everything and anything Mesoamerican”. In the three centuries that followed, there was a strong interplay of old and new world cultures, which gave birth to the first generation of ‘modern mestizos’. 

On September 16^th of 1810, a catholic priest , Miguel Hidalgo , gave the famous Cry for Independence - now commemorated as the day that Mexico’s war for Independence officially began. Mexico gained complete independence in 1821, although for several years, it struggled to gain a strong foothold as a republic. During these times it faced many wars, most notable among them being the guerra del 47 (war of 1847). In this year, which was two years after the US had annexed Texas, the American army had advanced into Chapultepec. This location was important, and a deciding factor that could determine Mexico's political future. In fact, the Castillo de Chapultepec is the very site that the infamous Battle of Chapultepec took place. It is also revered as the place where 6 teenage military cadets (or Niños heroes) fought and sacrificed themselves for Mexico, against the U.S. Forces. One of the niños wrapped his body in a Mexican flag, and threw himself from the castle to his death. The six young heroes are remembered to this day. A large mural painting (by the famous Diego Rivera) at the entrance of the castle (look up as you enter!) honors them.

1910 is also an important year in Mexico's history – it is the year of the end of the long dictatorship under Díaz,and the birth of democratic Mexico. Post-revolutionary Rivera has several large wall paintings describing Mexico's political history in the National Palace, a mile's stretch from here.

 

Castillo de Chapultepec  
 

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It is indeed a herculean task to trace the cultural contours and history of a country with such diverse ethos! I have done little justice in my documentary of its labyrinthine national character - but therein lies my justification!